Daily Log: Day 26

Meetup: Day 26 – Friday 8/7/2020 – 1692.5 – clear, windy, sunny, cool. I woke at 4:45 am and was on trail at 5:38 am. I descended until a stream. It was on a saddle. Then I began the first climb towards the Mount Flora summit. The trail was very rocky. At one point the rock trail disappeared because, I think, an avalanche had recently happened. Slowly I crossed the disruption and found the trail again on the other side. There were lots of switch backs. Up and up I climbed. I kept my breathing controlled. No 25-counts. It leveled out for a while. Next the second climb began. I was now again above tree line. The trail still had a lot of rocks. It’s amazing how you can easily tell where the trail is going in a rock jumble. The hand of man is so obvious. At one point I did get off trail and using Guthooks I carefully found my way across a jumble of rocks and back to the trail. Up and up I climbed. Over a ridge and I was again on a somewhat flatter trail. One more climb, the hardest one yet, was coming up. I met two section hikers and we chatted briefly. They were doing a 75 mile section. They said you must be Tartan we met your son. I said I was and I was in a hurry to get to him so continued on. I began the last climb and there he was. Oh such a wonderful feeling. The wind was calmer here. We were on the lee-side of the mountain. I sat and had a snack. He brought me a Squirt soda. It tasted so good. After the snack we climbed in earnest and soon we were at the top of Mount Flora. There were other day hikers in groups sitting here and there. The wind was blasting. Many of the day hikers had move down off the peak to get out of the wind. We headed down in the buffeting wind. Mile after mile passed. Several groups were coming up and we moved off trail to let them go by and give them COVID-19 social-distancing space. We could see the tiny cars down on the highway and in the parking lot. Finally we got down to the lot. It was just 12:15 pm. All I wanted to do was to sit, drink another Squirt, and take my shoes off. Justin made a great lunch with fresh cooked chicken, chicken-flavored rice and a PackIt Gourmet spicy corn chowder. Yum! Then we turned to planning the next leg. I’ve decided to do the Silverthorne alternative. Less height, less miles and less difficulty. The only problem is we can’t find the elevation diagram. We’ll need to adjust our meetup points too. Tomorrow is my first ZERO DAY. Casey, Kyle and Tam are coming for a small hike. It should be fun.

Hiking up Mount Flora. I always wonder how a rock-strewn slope is formed geologically.
Justin waiting for me on the leeward side of Mount Flora. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
After talking to a couple of hikers I continue on my way towards Justin. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
I’m so focused on climbing and breathing that I don’t realize that Justin has been watching me for a while. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Hugs, and a selfie along with a Squirt soda to celebrate. It was very windy there and Justin’s hair shows it. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
At the summit of Mount Flora leaning into the wind and stabilizing myself with my poles. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 24

Hiking Together: Meetup: Day 24 – Wednesday 8/5/2020 – 1666.9 – clear, warm, monsoon clouds afternoon. Justin will be hiking with me today. I woke first at 4:45 am, packed up and started hiking at 5:35 am until Monarch Lake Trailhead where I stopped to wait for him. He woke at 5:30 am, drove the Jeep to the Monarch Lake Trailhead where he parked the Jeep and joined me. We started on the flat and then in two miles we started climbing 2000’ for the next 3 miles. After the climb we had many smaller ups and downs. We stopped for snacks twice, and for a 30-40 minute lunch with only 2.5 miles to go. After lunch we met a hiking family who told about climbing Grays Peak and how steep and perilous it was. They recommended the Silverthorne alternative. We arrived at our campsite about 3:15 pm and put up our tents. We discussed the two alternatives. I’m leaning towards the Silverthorne alternative. I’ve got to make a decision soon. It is right after Berthoud Pass. It really is nice to have Justin here to discuss my options with me.

Me sitting on a log at our campsite with my tent in the back and Justin’s tent in the front. Tomorrow I’ll continue southbound whereas Justin will return northbound to the Jeep at the Monarch Lake Trailhead. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
We are right next to the trail and a stream. For the rest of the afternoon groups of day hikers pass by. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 23

Meetup: Day 23 – Tuesday 8/4/2020 – 1652.3 – partially cloudy, sunny, hot, cloudy. I woke at 5:10 am, Justin drove me to the trail, and I was on trail at 6:10 am. A little later than my normal daily start time. I was slack pack hiking along fine by the lake shore. Then after 2 miles the trail splits. While I’m hiking I’m listening to an audible book. I come to a fork in the trail. One fork is blocked with cut tree trunks so I go the other way. The trail is clear and easy. After a while I check and I AM OFF TRAIL! What?! It’s been 0.7 mile since the junction. Back I go to the fork. The actual trail was the blocked fork. Argh! And it has lots of blowdowns – no wonder it is blocked. I just lost 1.5 miles or wasted about 35-40 minutes. Grrrr! And then later I think it merged into the same trail. Maybe I could have continued on the first trail. Oh well. It was a mess. After a while later I meet two 300-mile section hikers – Queso and Chips. I chat with them a few minutes and moved on. I get to the last 5 miles which is a 600’ climb. At the top I stop and tell Justin via InReach these delays have set me back about an hour [“Ok i am running an hour late” Aug 4, 2020 12:27 PM]. He’s said that he’s having problems getting a campsite. I’ve finished my audible book and started another. It’s hot and I haven’t had my second morning snack. The campsite is in sight but stop and eat a Clif bar and drink my lemonade. At 12:15 pm I arrive to find Justin waiting at his Jeep. He and I wait to see if any site opens. He meets a couple who have reserved a site but are moving to another one. So we pay and take over their old site. Justin needed to find out about overnight parking, because he is planning to hike with me tomorrow and afterwards he can return to the parked Jeep the next day. He doesn’t need a campsite just a parking spot. While he is away I set up my tent. Just as I’m finishing a family pulls up and says they have a reservation for this exact site. Oh my what should I do? I tried to explain that Justin set all this up, but he’s not here. We walk over to the campground manager, where Justin is, to resolve the conflict. Luckily she found us another spot. So down goes my tent, we move, and I put my tent back up. Finally we are settled. Justin helps me plan the next four days with climbs above 13K. Dinner was great: Trout with Rice. Yum! We chat and enjoy each other’s company.

A subtle CDT trail marker on a walkway in the town of Grand Lakes CO taken by Justin after dropping me off for my slack pack hike around the lake to Arapaho Bay Moraine Campground. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Great trout with rice dinner by master chef Justin. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Our final campsite at Arapaho Bay Moraine Campground. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 22

Meetup: Day 22 – Monday 8/3/2020 – 1639.8 – clear, cloudy, no rainy, gusty winds. I woke at 4:45 am and Justin drove me back to Bowen Gulch at 5:45 am to slack pack to and through Grand Lake CO. It’s about 10 miles. I needed a break from all the climbing which was wearing me out. I got to the Grand Lake Trailhead via the RMNP Alternative. While hiking I saw a moose cow and its calf. Then he picked me up and we went back at the Winding River campground to relaxed. Justin made a tasty and very filling sandwich: toasted bread, bacon, egg and cheese. Yum! I did some chores – laundry and free hot showers. The shower was wonderful – a highlight. It’s helping me feel less stressed. Oh and tonight is ribeye steak, and corn chips with bean dip. He is such a great cook. I am very spoiled.

My Oboz Sawtooth II Low Hiking Shoes footprint on the RMNP alternate trail.

Daily Log: Day 21

Meetup: Day 21 – Sunday 8/2/2920 – 1612.5 – clear, sunny, hot, cloudy. I woke late at 5:12 am and was on trail at 5:55 am. Today I had three climbs. The first was on a forest road and I missed a turn. I was at the “top” and eating a snack when a mountain biker comes up. We chat and he rides off. I look at my location and realize I’m not on the trail. I had missed the turn off about 0.2 miles back and down. The trail had split from the forest road and I was so focused on climbing that I went right by it. Down I went, got to the actual trail, and up I climbed again. The second climb was hard too. I had to do 25-counts. Then on the last climb I was nearly there, only 0.5 miles, when I heard a voice. It was Justin and saw him walking towards me. He had climbed 3000’ over 7 miles to get to Bowen Pass. He brought Cokes! We ate lunch and proceeded to hike back to his Jeep! It took 3 1/2 hours back and we got there at 4:00 pm. He drove us to the Winding River Resort where we are staying tonight. I need a break so tomorrow I’m slack packing 10 miles to Grand Lake CO on an alternative route because we can’t get a permit to hike in Rocky Mountain National Park. At the end he’s going to pick me up and we will stay overnight again at this same campground. The day after that I plan on slack packing again beyond Grand Lakes CO. This is all to give me a break which I desperately need. These climbs have been wearing me out! We had pancakes for dinner and now I’m stuffed!

A happy selfie after our surprise meeting just before Bowen Pass in the trees behind us. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
On the way down from Bowen Pass Justin and I encountered our first moose. We waved our hands over our heads and yelled at it, but the moose just stood there – unflappable. So after a few minutes of impasse we went off trail through brush and over blown down trees until we passed it and then continued on our way. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Waiting in the Jeep with a big smile on my face as Justin signs us into the Winding River campground. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
A few days ago Justin asked if there was anything I wanted for dinner so I suggested pancakes and sausage. He came through! (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Our campsite at Winding River. Me in my ground-based tent and Justin in his roof-top one. I am preparing Justin’s day-pack for the next day’s slack pack on an alternate trail around Rocky Mountain National Park. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 19

Meetup: Day 19 – Friday 7/31/2929 – 1580.7 – clear, cold, hot, threatening rain but none, sunny. I woke at 4:45 am and was on trail at 5:40 am. I have two climbs today: 2500’ and the later 1000’ followed by many mini climbs. I sent Justin an inReach: [“been thinking about doing it in one day but I have a big climb 2500′ and a medium climb 1000′ to get to you. I’ll make the decision after the big one.” Jul 31, 2020 7:59 AM]. On the first climb my right ankle started to hurt. It was a muscle cramp. I had no problem descending only ascending. I just ignored it and kept going. I had lunch at mile 14 and committed to get to Justin today by doing an additional 7 miles. I sent him and inReach message: [“I am coming to you after lunch” Jul 31, 2020 12:51 PM]. I started to listen to an audio book to pass the time. The second climb was OK, but then the trail was on the side of mountains and rain clouds were starting to form. I did lots of ups and downs – choppy. They wore me out. I pushed hard to get to Justin. When I got to him I was in tears from pushing so hard. Another section hiker name Mappy, who I had met a few days ago, stopped by. Justin gave him refreshments and food. We chatted at dinner together. Tomorrow is another big climb – Parkview and it might rain.

Hiking along on a dirt road enjoying the wildflowers and the view.
Late afternoon on the side of a mountain and pushing to get done for the day
Our campsite on Troublesome Pass Trailhead. I camped behind the trees on the left to stay out of the wind. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 17

Meetup: Day 17 – Wednesday 7/29/2020 – 1537.4 – clear, sunny, cool, windy. I stayed in my sleeping bag until 4:45 am and got on trail about 5:45 am. Overall it was an uneventful day. There were some climbs, but nothing major. It was cool and windy so I kept my down vest on and wore wool gloves too. It was so uneventful that I listened to audio book to help pass the time. My shoes and socks dried out. Near the end as I was approaching Justin several day hikers said “You must be Tartan” your son told us about you. This happened in the last three miles. One was a lady NOBO section hiker named Knock-out. I began to mention how tough yesterday was and how much I needed to see my son. As I spoke I got choked up, excused myself and quickly continued on my way. I don’t often get emotional but after the stress of yesterday I did. After a short climb I got to Justin. I was so relieved. The social and emotional connection is so important. I dropped my pack, my poles and hugged him. It felt so good. I had made it! Later this day Glider, a hiker, stopped by for a Coke and stayed over an hour telling us about his hiking, falling down on trail, ex-wife, life,… Each hiker has a story to tell, but his was a bit too much information.

Doing my chores after arriving at our meetup – resupplying my food for the next section from the plastic bins in the Jeep. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Setting up my tent is another daily chore. Here it is right next to the trail so I placed branches/logs to protect my guy lines. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Just across the dirt road from my tent the Jeep was parked with its root-top pop-up tent. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 15

Meetup: Day 15 – Monday 7/27/2020 – 1505.9 – partially cloudy, sunny, hot in sun – I woke at 4:45 am and on trail at 5:35 am. My first climb was slow and steady. It was not bad. I took double breaths and small steps. I made it to the top without stopping to catch my breathe. There was a long descent and I tried to not use my poles. At about 7.5 miles I took a detour to skip a bridge that was out. I got water when the detour rejoined the actual trail. Most of the rest of the day I was hiking a single track trail. I listened to my audio book to make the time pass. The last climb had worried me but it was not bad. I met Mappy, a section hiker, part way up. The sun made it quite hot for the last little road walk. Justin was waiting at the trailhead. So so nice to see him. I immediately started doing chores – especially preparing to do laundry, but first a shower for stinky ol’ me. After my shower we sat in the shade as I washed and rinsed my clothes. I hung them all over the Jeep to dry. The hot sun made drying quick work. I’ve switched to new shoes and socks – Oboz and Injinjis. Our dinner was pork burritos. Yum! We’ve decided to combine the next two sections into one. So our next planned meetup is canceled at Buffalo Pass. If all goes well I’ll see him in two days at Rabbit Ear Pass. However I have my biggest climb yet – 3500 feet in 8 miles.

Early morning trail panoramic picture. I think my lens needs cleaning.
Yup, the lens definitely needs cleaning, grrr!
After a shower I washed my clothes and hung them all over the Jeep to dry including on a stretchy clothesline, the rear view mirror and the shower itself. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 13

Hike Together: Meetup: Day 13 – Saturday 7/25/2920 – 1474.6 – started clear, overcast, after rain, clearing by late afternoon. Today I slept in, BECAUSE JUSTIN IS HIKING WITH ME! We left camp at about 6:10 am. Justin drove the Jeep to the trailhead which is 0.6 miles up the road. I hiked it because I want to have a continuous set of footsteps from Mexican border to the Canadian border – the entire trail. We left the trailhead together at 6:30 am. We immediately had to climb. I had to hike while counting 25 right-foot steps, then pause, catch breath, and repeat. Up and up we went. Finally it was flatter and I could breathe regularly. We hiked through wet marshy meadows getting our feet wet. It was a single track trail. I was in front of Justin who hiked behind me, because I hike slower. We passed many water sources. I learned that Justin’s vision is much better than mine. He could see the trail markers that are much farther ahead which kept us on trail. There was less need for relying on the Guthooks mapping app. The trail was marked very well. The next climb wasn’t so bad. Then we had a very steep long descent. At 11:30 am we stopped for lunch at the last water before our planned Tentsite stop. It started to rain so we rushed on. Then began another climb. I was getting tired and had to again count 25 steps and pause. We finally arrive at the site at about 2:15 pm. In the rain we rushed to put our tents up. Afterwards I climbed into my tent and Justin into his. I got off my wet shoes and socks and put on warm socks and camp shoes. I was exhausted, sweaty and chilled. So I laid down. Surprisingly I took a nap with my sleeping bag partially over me for additional warmth. I was asleep for for 2-3 hours. During that time Justin tried to talk to me, but I didn’t respond. He was also surprised that I had conked out. So he did things around camp. Finally around 5 pm I begin to wake up. He had made a wonderful fire. So I got out of my tent and stood in front of the fire, because I was still chilled. The fire felt so good. Next he made and we ate dinner. Finally he put the fire out. We got into our tents for the night. Wow! What a day. The tough climbs, the massive descent, the cold rain, and the long nap. All quite unusual. Tomorrow Justin will retrace his hike back northbound to the Jeep while I hike on southbound by myself. It was a lovely day and I’ll miss him.

On the road between last night’s campsite and the trailhead that we’d be hiking southbound together there was a rare CDT road sign
Ready to start our 15 mile hike – me with my nose strip on. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
As Justin followed me I was unaware that he was taking picture of me in action on the trail. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Through fields of wildflowers. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Across marshy wet meadows. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Following the trail and looking for markers which were poles in cairns. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Even though it’s the end of July we found scatterings of snow. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Sometimes up, sometimes down, sometimes gently, sometime steeply. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
At the end of the day we camped where I unusually napped and Justin made a fire. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 12

Hiking Together: Meetup: Day 12 – Friday 7/24/2029 – 1459.8 – rainy, cold, clearing, cool. I woke to the patter of rain on my tent. Then the rain stopped. I’ve begun to feel the days are getting shorter. I got on trail by 5:20 am. I headed to two creeks about two miles ahead. There I got water and sent Justin a message telling him when I left camp so he could estimate when I’d get to the summit and our meeting [“Left at 5:20. Stopping for water about 1.7 miles from camp.” Jul 24, 2020 7:03 AM]. The rain started slowly again. I put up my umbrella. It was cool and began to turn colder. Finally I stopped and put on my rain jacket and rain mittens. They helped keep me warmer. But I was wet underneath. At about 9 am here comes Justin towards me. We were only 15 minutes from the 10,900 foot summit. There was not much to see. It was foggy, cold and misting. The grass was wet and it soaked my feet. Since Justin knew the way I mindlessly followed him down. Every so often I has to stop and breathe. We made it back to the Jeep about 10:45 am. Immediately I was cold and switched my shirt to a dry one, put on my puffy jacket and hat, put on dry socks and my camp shoes. Soon I felt better. I’m glad we’re done for today. We had brats for lunch. Then chores began to prepare for the next day’s section. We’ll be hiking southbound together for 15 miles. Then I will continue on and Justin will turn around and return to the Jeep. The rain stopped, the sun came out, but it was cool so we needed a coat.

Justin parked the Jeep and is preparing to hike backwards to meet me. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
After meeting me and on the way down Justin found a loose CDT trail marker and asked me to hold it for this picture. I look cold. I need to keep moving to stay warm. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Hidden behind the glove I’m eating a snack to get more calories to keep warner. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Finally back at camp and warmer I’m repairing the big hole in my backpack side pocket where I had toppled backwards while climbing over a massive blowdown. In my pack I carried a needle with me for just such emergencies, and my thread was dental floss. Slowly I stitched catching each new stitch in the previous one. When done I imagined it looked like what Frankenstein’s stitches looked like. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Warm and chores done I can finally relax… (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Our homes for tonight: me in my tent (foreground) and Justin in his roof-top pop-up. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)