Daily Log: Day 59

Meetup: Zero: Day 59 – Wednesday 9/9/2020 – 2213.0 – snow! I woke several time overnight as the snow accumulated on my tent. Earlier I would smack the inside of my tent to loosen the snow and have it drop off. At midnight I had to get out and hand scoop about a foot of snow from all around my tent. While doing this I accidentally tripped on my front door guy line and pulled it out. I got it back in, but it wasn’t as secure as before. At 2 am I again smacked the inside, but this time the front guy line popped out. Luckily I found the stake in the snow and replaced it with a bigger one. Using my shoe I pounded it in. At the 3:30 am I completely undressed in the freezing cold and put on my Patagonia long underwear. My feet were still cold, but I just tried to sleep regardless. Finally about 7 am I got up when Justin got up. I packed up the stuff in my tent into my backpack, but left my tent up, which now had more snow surrounding it. I sat in the Jeep trying to get warm while Justin brushed it off. We started the engine, but we needed to conserve gas so we can get out of here so turned it off. As I see it we have a few options. One, Call the hike quits – that is the hike is over. Two, wait until the snow melts and continue from here. Three, go to Chama and wait it out. Four, go to Cuba and head north. Hopefully the weather in Cuba will clear faster, because it is further south. I’m leaning on going to Cuba NM, that is, called flip-flopping. Around 8:30 am I packed up my tent and Justin closed his roof tent. Unfortunately when we put my pack in the back of the Jeep the bladder bite valve leaked and emptied its entire contents on and in the cooler and beneath. Nothing is easy today. Justin very nicely cleaned up much of the leaked cold water before he started on his own packing up chores. Finally we were all packed up. We tried to drive down the forest road. We got about a tenth of a mile and the snow made it impossible to find where the road went. So we turned around and went back to the campsite. We are now here for the next few days until the weather clears and either we can find the road down to town, or I can find the trail to move on. Justin has sent messages to family using his phone telling them we are stuck stuck stuck. I was too cold in my tent so I’ve decided to sleep in the passenger seat of the Jeep. To do this I’ve rearranged and restacked some of the plastic bins and jerry cans to make more room to recline the seat. I’ve pulled on all my warm clothes and gotten into my sleeping bag. My legs are draped over the gear shift and emergency brake so my feet can rest on the driver seat. I’m trying my best to be comfortable in our dear little cramped Jeep. Justin is again sleeping in the roof-top pop-up tent.

In the morning all tent sides were again buried and I was still cold. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
We had gotten 12-15 inches of snow. The forecast (for Chama) was 3-5 inches. We were stranded. Luckily we had met several hunters who were camped only 100 yards away. So we had plenty of food, and water and we weren’t alone. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 58

Meetup: Day 58 – Tuesday 9/8/2020 – 2213.0 – cloudy, windy, rain, thunder. I wanted to sleep in for 15 minutes, but I got up at 5 am. I packed up and headed out with my puffy on. I started a climb, but the slope is now more gentle. My second climb was a bit steeper, but no longer a long one. I left Colorado and entered New Mexico after 2.5 miles. I saw no sign announcing the State change. I listened to the Boys in the Boat audio book. I got to FDR 87 and to Justin at about 11:30 am. It was still quite early in the day. I encountered no rain during my hike. I had a soda and snack. I set up my tent in the lee side of a large pine tree to protect me from the wind and hopefully snow too. Justin parked the Jeep next to me to further block the wind. The split in my right thumb hurts. My left little toe is bandaged as is my right third toe. We are hanging out.

I put up my tent behind the tree to block the wind. We assumed that the tree may also block any snow too, but that was hopeful dreaming. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Justin also moved the Jeep closer to block the wind. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
At 7 PM the snow began to fall. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Soon it began to cover the tent sides. While inside my tent I would hit the sides every 5 minutes to knock the snow off and down. I finally gave up and went to sleep. At midnight I woke up and all the sides were deep in snow. I got my shoes on and crawled out. All around the sides I hand dug out the tent. It took a while. I got back in and tried to sleep, but I was cold. About 3:30 AM I put on my Patagonia base layer, but I was still cold. Snow is still falling and I’m trying to get some more sleep. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 57

Meetup: Day 57 – Monday 9/7/2020 – 2199.9 – clear, sunny, cool, partially cloud, smoke from CA fires. I woke at 4:55 am. I packed up and was on trail at 5:45 am with headlamp. Today I have only two climbs and they were gentle. Now I am finally leaving the mountains and getting into what I call mesas. I have been listening to audio books to help pass the time. My little toe on left foot is sore. I’m worried about the forecast of upcoming rain, the temperature drop and the 3-5” snow. So I pushed real hard to get to Justin. I sent him an InReach message telling him that [“I’m pushing to get to Today Monday. I’m 3.2 miles away” Sep 7, 2020 4:56 PM]. I arrived at 5:15 pm. It was a 24.5 mile day. I was zooey or spacey when I arrived having not had any calories since 2 pm. He made me carnitas tacos and I drank 2 Squirts which finally revived me. Now I’m planning on doing only 13 miles tomorrow and meet up with Justin on a forest road before the expected snow. Previously the plan had been a two day 23 mile section. It’s likely to rain, then get much colder and snow later that night. I’m trying to miss being alone in the cold and snow if possible.

Early morning dawn light
In my home away from home at Cumbres Pass after pushing and hiking 24 miles to get here today. Little did I know that I should probably not have done that with the upcoming snow storm the next day. If I hadn’t we might have been at this pass which is near a highway where we could have made our escape down to Chama sooner and easier. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Cumbres Pass Wikipedia: The Pass is on the Continental Divide Trail and represents a transition between states. Northbound hikers head toward Colorado’s San Juan Mountain Wilderness while southbound hikers enter New Mexico’s Carson National Forest. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 54

Meetup: Zero: Day 54 – Friday 9/4/2020 – 2132.3 ZERO IN PAGOSA SPRINGS – clear sunny very hot in town. At the hotel I slept in until after 7 am. Wow! We went to McD’s for take-out breakfast. Then we relaxed in the hotel room. We went over the plan for the next few days. This included the weather forecast that expected rain and snow on next Tuesday from Pagosa Springs CO to Chama NM. Ugh! So I added long underwear to my kit and removed down vest. I counted how much remaining food I had for the last days and wrote short shopping list for Justin. I did a little email and blog posting. I trimmed my beard. I packed a day pack for my slack pack tomorrow. We are planning on getting BBQ tonight. It is still very hot (it is in the eighties Fahrenheit) and dry here. I am constantly drinking liquids. Independently Justin did more laundry for his Autohome, such as, washing his sheets and pillow case. Altogether it was a relaxing, slow, non-hiking day – the definition of a ZERO DAY.

I had a much needed shower and trimmed my beard in the Pagosa Springs Quality Inn. I’m a new man! (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 53

Hiking Together: Meetup: Day 53 – Thursday 9/3/2020 – 2132.3 – clear, sunny, hot. Justin and I woke at my normal 5 am, packed up in our limited campsite among the pines, and were on trail with headlamps at 5:50 am. I kept my puffy and gloves on. We immediately began to climb. By the end of the climb I had to take my puffy off. I was too hot. The rest of the day the climbs and trail were more forgiving. The weather was pleasant or maybe a bit warm. We stopped to talk to an archer hunter with a compound bow looking for elk. During one descent as I focused on the trail immediately in front of me I ran into a log hanging partially over the trail. OMG! When I collided I saw stars. My hat brim shielded me from seeing it. Justin looked and saw I had a dime sized scrap on my head. Justin applied Neosporin to it. Although shaken by the very sudden impact luckily I wasn’t hurt. Further down the trail we met and talked to several day hikers. Even though the weather and trail was good I was tired. For the final descent to Wolfe Creek Pass Trailhead I again let Justin lead. What was especially exciting to both of us was we were going to town for a zero day. In town we bought two pizzas then went to the hotel. As Justin unpacked his stuff I went in and took a hot shower. It was marvelous. Then Justin did our laundry, a stinky mass of hiking clothes, in the hotel machines. Just having this little oasis from the trail and his help with chores was such a relief. I made telephone calls to Katie and Kathy and Justin called Stephanie. All is well with the world – or at least the small corner that we’re in.

We had one more day’s hike to Wolfe Pass and we’d take a ZERO DAY in Pagosa Springs! (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Smiles in the early morning sunshine. We’re hiking together and we have things to look forward to doing. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
So let’s get going. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Leaving Weminuche Wilderness. The long 80+ mile Stony Pass to Wolfe Pass section is almost done. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Back at Wolfe Pass relaxing with a Squirt soda. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 52

Hiking Together: Meetup: Day 52 – Wednesday 9/2/2020 – 2117.0 – clear, sunny, cool, no rain whatsoever. I am jointly camping with Justin. We woke at 5 am together. We were on trail at 5:50 am. We started with a series of medium (500’) climbs. They went by OK. We stopped every two hours for a snack. We met and chatted with a hunter on horseback. After the medium climbs we had a big one 1800’. We stopped at noon about 25% up the climb for lunch. Then it was back at it. We went up and up and up. I was getting tired. It ended in a double summit. On the second one there had been a small landslide and when we got there Justin said it looked like it had been repaired. Then around the corner, out of the wind, we stopped on the side of the mountain for my final snack. I was sitting on a downward sloped rock on a very downward sloped trail looking straight down a 45 degree slope. Suddenly I felt I was going to fall. Was it vertigo? Wow, that never happens to me. I finished my snack. Carefully I got up and continued hiking on the side of the mountain, but I was having a hard time shaking that “if I fell off trail I’d be a goner” feeling. That was very spooky. After all the thousands of miles to have that happen. But I gotta say that spot was particularly unnerving. After that episode, the rocky trail, the steep descent, and how tired I was I let Justin lead and I slowly descended. It was still a few miles to our campsite. When I got there I was beat. We got our tents up. We went and got water. This whole 80 miles section in the San Juan mountains and pushing to do 16.5 miles per day was too much. I think we should have slowed down and taken another day. So while we were hiking Justin made the executive decision to go to Pagosa Spring, get a hotel room and take a zero day on Friday. There we can get a shower, do laundry, and maybe eat pizza, or BBQ I think I need this break as a pick me up since the trail had been so hard recently.

The next day we continued southbound towards Wolfe Pass. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Sometime the trail was rocky and difficult to traverse. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
At one point we stopped on the side of a rocky mountain. While sitting facing out I had a snack and suddenly felt I might fall. It unnerved me. Meanwhile Justin got a cell signal and was making a motel reservation in Pagosa Springs. The next day we’d take a ZERO! (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Justin returned to the campsite he used on his northbound hike to meet me. Now it was both of us in the trees that helped to block the wind. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
If you thought yesterday’s campsite was cramped well today’s was even tighter. Regardless we survived and didn’t even trip on each other’s guy lines. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 51

Hiking Together: Meetup: Day 51 – Tuesday 9/1/2020 – 2100.6 – some clouds, sunny, cool, no monsoon rain! I woke in my weird campsite in the pine trees. It had rained overnight. The water had leaked into the tent tub. The foot end of my sleeping bag was now wet. Regardless I packed it away in its stuff sack. Rolling up the wet tent chilled my fingers so I couldn’t feel them. I did not have my normal morning poo, because it was rocky, I was late and never dug a cat hole the night before. It will have to be delayed. I ate my breakfast pop tart in my tent. That was a first too. Once on trail I descended to a saddle and immediately started the next climb. It’s the story of my trail life in the mountains. Ya can’t complain. Ya just gotta climb, climb, and climb. I stopped to make sure I’m on the trail. I was. I stopped to poo in a pine grove worried that someone might come by. I did about 5-7 climbs. In the afternoon I stopped at a lake to fill all my water. because I had to dry campsite tonight. Finally I got to the end around 3:30 pm. There was no Justin there. Oh no! But who should look over the hilltop above me at that moment? Yup! It was Justin. He just got there. Perfect timing! I hiked up to him, hugged and then we hiked 0.8 miles southbound to a campsite he had just passed. I setup all my stuff. It was flat, and dry. I had a camp buddy. Justin! That is excellent. Two more days and we’ll be back at Wolfe Creek Trailhead. Justin said we have only 70 miles left in Colorado. I so look forward to being out of these big mountains and their ascents and descents. They are beautiful, but so hard to climb.

Rain cloud threatening but I’ve got to keep going to meet Justin.
We met within a few minutes of us getting to our meet-up point. Justin and I had adventure stories to tell from him getting snowed on and me camping in the trees. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Together as the top of the hill with the southbound trail behind us. We followed it to a less exposed campsite. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
We camped at the top of the hill where we met up. it was tight but the trees protected us. There was a steep rocky drop off behind my tent. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 48

Meetup: Day 48 – Saturday 8/29/2020 – 2050.1 – cloudy, cold rain at 7-9 am, clearing, sunny, more rain twice, cold. I woke at 5 am and packed up. It’s another slack pack day. I put my regular backpack in Jeep. My tent is wet inside. I need to remember to keep one door open to reduce inside condensation. I headed out at 5:50 am. I have 6 climbs, but with light day pack they are easier. I met two northbound CT hikers. The scenery is spectacular. Justin met me on the trail about 1 mile before the Jeep. We got to Jeep at 1:30 pm. Justin is Mr. Social and entertains the hikers as they passed by us with free sodas. Our dinner was sausage, rice and lentils. It is quite tasty and warm. When I’m not hiking I get chilled so I went and sat in the Jeep. Here we are above 12,000 feet altitude. Tomorrow we have the longest section. It is 80 miles. To break it up Justin is going to drive the Jeep tomorrow to the end of the section and then hike back to meet me in the middle. I’m going to hike southbound 3 days by myself and Justin is going to hike northbound 2 days until we meet up.

Tried to find a spot to set up my tent near the Jeep for protection from the wind. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
While we were there a film crew arrived to document Legend’s attempt of a Fastest Known Time (FKT) for an Unsupported Hike of the Colorado Trail. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Sunset made the pass glow.
While I decided to stay in my tent Justin briefly met Legend as he came through the pass. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 47

Meetup: Day 47 – Friday 8/28/2020 – 2034.4 – woke to no morning rain, clouds in night sky, sprinkles started at 9 am, cold rain continued until 11:30, started at 1:30, then stopped, so far hasn’t returned. I woke at 5 am. I packed up backpack, and tent. My tent was wet inside. I put both of them in the Jeep. I am slack packing today. I left camp at 5:50 am. After 2 miles saw Apollo getting water. She camped about 1/2 mile back when yesterday night’s hail and rain struck. After saying hi I continued on. I was a man on a mission trying to get done before the next rain started. At mile eight I passed a tent, but quietly went by trying not to disturb whoever it was. Then the rain started and I got on my rain jacket and rain gloves but no pants. I put up my umbrella. Doing those thing helped. My hands were cold and my pant legs were wet. I was doing my climbs easily, because of the lighter pack. There were times when the rain stopped and thankfully my pant legs began to dry out. However my shoes and socks never did. I got to the highest point for today around 12:30 pm and down to Justin about 1:30 pm. I felt good, but I was glad today’s hiking was done. Immediately behind me was Apollo who wanted to do 6 more miles to a lake. Good for you I thought, but for myself I’m done. Justin made me hot chocolate to warm me up. Also I made a dehydrated Chicken and Rice dinner for some calories. Although I wasn’t shaking the food was helpful. All afternoon we stayed at the Carson Saddle Trailhead. The only problem is it will probably rain again tonight and I’m worried about the wind coming over the saddle. Justin moved the Jeep to block some of the wind. Goodnight, tomorrow’s another slack pack to Stony Pass Trailhead. And then our longest section of 80 miles.

Beautiful double rainbow as Justin waits for me at Carson Saddle Trailhead. By the time I got there the rainbow was gone and rain was threatening. I worried about the wind coming across the saddle so he parked the Jeep so as to try to block it. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 46

Hiking Together: Meetup: Day 46 – Thursday 8/27/2020 – 2017.6 – clear, sunny, gusting wind, cool, hot, monsoon rain with hail, clearing. I woke up at 5 am at Middle Mineral. Several tents had appeared overnight. I quietly packed up and was on trail at 5:50 am. I had only 10 miles, but started with a 3.5 mile climb. I dunno why, but it was harder than I thought. Then the descent included a long rocky path. Then crossing a mesa was just up and down. Around 9:50 am I saw a hiker coming towards me. IT WAS JUSTIN! It was so nice to see him. We still had about 3.5 miles to go. I stopped for a snack and a 7-Up to get more energy. Onward over this mesa we went. Then we began a 2 mile descent. It was steep and rocky and just never seemed to end. Finally we got to the parking lot around 11:30. The hiker Rewind stopped by to chat. I dried my tent on the ground held down by rocks. I was worried about getting caught in the upcoming rain. The clouds looked threatening. We went 0.1 mile up trail to find me a camping spot and Justin a parking spot. It was early afternoon. We talked to Buffalo and Apollo who were going on. There is not much water via CDT Guthooks but Colorado trail says there is some in 2 and 8 miles. I’m planning on slack packing tomorrow. Then around 5 pm Honey Buns, Cheech and her brother stopped to camp here. Unfortunately it began to rain and hail and we watched them, while sitting in the Jeep, try to set up their tents in the downpour. OMG! Nevertheless they were successful with their tents and drove off to town. When it stopped about an hour later my tent was ok. I hope the other earlier hikers who went on weren’t caught in it. Tomorrow the weather is dicey. We shall see.

Justin hiked northbound and met me on the trail with a hug and a soda! (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Justin explaining to me that the trail leads down through the rocky valley in the distance and then to Spring Creek Pass. (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)