Daily Log: Day 64

64 2826.8 8/17/2021 overcast, rain, cold. Justin and I woke up between 4:30-5:00. We headed out together but missed where I had to split off. So we said our goodbyes and I turned around to go back. It was 0.3 miles back. Most of the morning I easily made progress. I listened to my audio book to help the time pass. It started to sprinkle so I put on my pack cover, raised my umbrella, got on my rain jacket. I caught up to the “Old Gray Mares” and chatted. I wished them well and went on. The rain started in earnest. As I hiked the plants got my pants and shoes soaking wet. I pushed on to a campsite. In the rain I rushed to get my tent up. I was soaked, chilled and muddy. I took off my shoes, socks, wound bandage and pants. Then I got on every dry piece of clothing I had in my backpack. I made my Ramen, and ate my extra apple and cheese. Then I made my dinner – Shepard’s Cottage Pie because it had the most calories. It’s supposed to get down to 39 degrees. I hope I’ll be warm enough. Tomorrow will be tough getting on all the cold wet stuff. Also it’s supposed to continue raining until 10-11 am. I might just stay in my tent till it passes. But I doubt it. Ha!

Daily Log: Day 63

63 2806.3 8/16/2021 sunny, hot. Woke and did my normal morning prep. I was on trail about 5:30. Had a 7.5 mile climb to the first peak. The scenery was wonderful. Less smoke today too. Saw no other hikers. Stopped for water several times. I wanted to guzzle at each snack and lunch break. Maybe I was sweating a lot. I got to Justin at 4:15 pm – that is, a 10:45 hour hiking time. I was a zombie. He too had a very tough day with a very difficult trail and many blowdowns. It took him 38 min per mile or twice his normal 20 mpm. We set up tents. Then we did my wound. He removed my stitches and put Steri-Strips on it. Then I covered it with gauze and wrapped it. Next we did my food resupply. Finally we had dinner. Now we are in our tents doing nightly chores. It’s going to rain tomorrow and get much colder. I’m planning on not pushing it, that is, doing about 15 miles per day. I have about 55 more miles to get the Bob Marshall Wilderness done. Then we are on to the Glacier NP and hiking with my dear daughter, Katie. 

See “Bisecting “The Bob”” for Justin’s description.

The Chinese Wall continues for miles and miles
It’s your partner as you hike with it being on your left side all day long
Finally it begins to end and I’m sad to lose its majesty and beauty
We both had very tough days. Justin had been through blowdown hell with a side order of thunderstorm. I became a zombie just marching along to get done. Nevertheless it was really good to meet in the wilderness like this (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 62

62 2783.5 8/15/2021 sunny, hot, smoky. Got up about 4:30. No one else at the Tentsite. Very quiet too. Did my morning chores and headed out. On trail about 5:35 am. Immediately had a 1000’ climb followed by 6 more. The scenery was stunning. The Chinese Wall was the back drop. Hopefully some of my pictures turned out. The air is very smoky and is obscuring the views. Met a flip-flipper “Birds”. Passed by a woman hiker filtering water 50’ away. She’s a weekend hiker. Then in the afternoon met two guys named “Ox” and “Gazelle” who were on a 12 day 90 mile hike with 55 lb packs – oh my! I continued on while listening to audio books. Finished one book and started another. Finally got to my last water and filled everything. I climbed a small hill looking for a flat spot. In a cluster of pines I found one. It was a 22 mile day. I sent a message to Justin that we are meeting at Fool Creek tomorrow. It’ll be another long day with big mileage and a bunch of climbs. But seeing Justin will make it worth it. Night night.

From Wikipedia: “The Chinese Wall is a large escarpment located in the Bob Marshall Wilderness Area in Montana. While definitions of the length of the wall vary (to up to forty miles) the part of the wall that is most well defined and continuous is about twelve miles long.”
Unfortunately the smoke obscured my view. Nevertheless the width and height of the Chinese Wall dwarfed the rest of the native scenery that I was hiking through
Yet some of the fallen boulders were as big as a house and I wondered what it would be like if a boulder that size were to fall near me during my hike

Daily Log: Day 61

61 2761.6 8/14/2021 overcast, sunny, pleasant. Leaving the Jeep and Benchmark campground was easy. I did the walk to the trail in the dark. The trail was smooth and clear. It was a very gradual climb. I listened to my Last Dog On Earth audio book to help pass the time. On the way several SOBO day hikers passed me. Three then four then four more. Two NOBO day hikers, “River Otter” and “Tardigrade”, stopped and chatted then went on ahead. Later I passed them setting up their tents at their base location. Then even later, around lunch time, they passed me heading to the summit. I found a campsite before the camping ban at mile 17. It’s only me here at this site. I took a nap because I didn’t get enough sleep yesterday. I really slept which was amazing for me. I woke at dinner time and made a Mountain House meal. I have 2 miles and 1100’ to get to the peak. Then there are 6 more climbs before descending. One of which is the Chinese Wall which is supposed to be amazing. I’m thinking about pushing my mileage to 23 miles tomorrow to make it only a three day section before meeting Justin with my resupply at Fool Creek the next day. I’ll see how I feel tomorrow. Today was good. It was nice seeing other hikers if only for saying a brief passing “Safe Journey”. I wish more would be hiking NOBO and camping here tonight. Night night

Daily Log: Day 60

60 2743.8 8/13/2021 cold, could see my breath, sunny, clear skies, hot. Justin and I hiked together from our campsite on the Sun River to Benchmark campground. We chatted as we hiked. It was very nice and passed the time easily. Although we only did 11.5 miles I was tired afterwards. I didn’t get a lot of sleep last night. We spent the afternoon preparing for tomorrow’s 4-day hike in The Bob Marshall Wilderness AKA “The Bob”. My gear is starting to wear-out, break and fail so I’m trying to keep it going to the end. Also I switched to new OBOZ shoes. They’re heavy, tough ones that I had packed in my gear bins and are the last pair of shoes I have. Justin cooked hot dogs for lunch and carnitas for dinner – yum! We met Jerry and Jim who’s wives (“The Old Grey Mares”) are hiking the CDT and left today. They are doing 15 miles per day whereas I will be doing 20 miles per day. My game is to try and catch them.In 4 days Justin is hiking in 11 miles to resupply me and stay overnight at Fool Creek. Night night.

Right away when we left camp we had to climb. Here we are in the midst of that climb (nasal strip to help me breathe at night) (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Next stop Benchmark and its beginning of the Bob Marshall Wilderness
Justin fording a creek – wet feet are just a normal part of the hiking experience
At Benchmark we find the sign for the start of the over 100-mile Bob Marshall Wilderness (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)

Daily Log: Day 59

59 2732.6 8/12/2021 sunny, no clouds. Woke around 5 and on trail about 6. My tent was wet with moisture because I camped near a creek. The immediate trail was covered with undergrowth. Then in time it opened up and I was in a river valley. I was making good progress of 5 miles every two hours. Then as I approached Justin and likewise he approached me I slowed down. The trail was rocky and I worried about tripping and falling. I stopped for lunch and checked my location. Somehow it showed me that I was off trail. This worried me because Justin could pass me without us seeing each other. We were sending InReach messages but the delay was maddening. To get back on trail I bushwhacked to where the trail should have been, but I could not find it. So I made my way back to where I had been. I ate some lunch and continued on my way hoping it would work out. Suddenly I saw another hiker, named “Cache-22” and I asked if he had seen my son. He had. Which meant the trail was ok and I was on trail. We chatted for a few minutes and bid each safe journey. I was only a mile from Justin, but it seemed to take forever. Finally I heard him and forded a stream to get to him. Whew! After doing chores we sat and chatted about the trail, this great campsite, and the upcoming 115 mile “The Bob” section. Dinner was dumplings – yum, one of my favorites. We tied our Ursacks to a tree and prepared for bed. Two other tents were pitched here without anyone around. At about 6:30 two trail worker arrived who had been doing trail maintenance south of here. Time for nightly chores and bed. Night night.

Some beautiful wildflowers in a burn area
Camping next to a river can be dicey – you can get wet with moisture and cold in a valley, but this was not the case here (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Meeting up and camping at a sweet tentsite on the Sun River

Daily Log: Day 58

58 2714.9 8/11/2021 sunny, cool breeze. I got up later at 5 am and was on trail a little later at 6 am. I made good progress with my climbs. I was still huffing and puffing, but I kept at it until they were done. I got to the “Lake” and took the side trail towards water. On the way I met two horsemen who said the water was there and also an outfitter packing up. They said to go further for better water. Indeed when I got to the outfitter and his crowd they directed me to a great water source. I chatted with the men there, ate my late snack and guzzled water. I decided to go on and climb the remaining two peaks. It was 12 more miles but I had nothing better to do. It was a long long descent to the plain and water. The first two had no camping sites so I went on to Dearborn Creek. Unfortunately I had to ford it and my wound’s ace bandage got wet. I’ve decided to only change it twice a day – morning and evening. It’s just easier. Well I’m ready for bed, but it’s hot and steamy. A typical problem at lower altitudes. Tomorrow Justin and I meet on trail, but now that I hiked extra we’ll just meet and camp wherever we want to. Night night.

The landscape is becoming more rugged

Daily Log: Day 57

57 2694.6 8/10/2021 clearer skies, sunny, very windy. Woke at 5 am in Lincoln MT. Justin drove me 15-20 minutes to Rogers Pass and took my picture to post to the family. I had two climbs immediately. The wind was blowing hard. I wore my puffy with the hood up and glovers. Then the two big climbs for the day. The CDT added an alternative that did not make the high point climb on the first one. Instead it went around the mountain. Yippee! Unfortunately I tripped and fell on a cut-off tree stub. Things went flying including my phone. All was ok. Nothing broken. My wound was OK. Downhill falls can be harsh. The second climb went to the top and the back side descent was treacherous. It was steep with loose rock and the wind didn’t help. Sidewards one step at a time. I reached Lewis and Clark Pass. I had to walk about 1/4 mile down to get water. While there I ate lunch and guzzled a bottle of water. I filled all my containers – 4.7L of water. It was very heavy to trudge back up to the pass. I looked for a tent site with a wind block and found some bushes. After setting up I laid down but didn’t nap. I was in the sun so I opened my umbrella in my tent to get some shade. At 5:30 I made dinner and did the rest of my chores. Including changing my wound dressing, which had barely leaked. Now it’s about 7 pm and although it’s light out I’m probably going to try to sleep. Note at 10:30 pm after peeing I saw two headlamps go by my tent towards the creek. Tomorrow I have 10 miles and 6-7 climbs – some bigger, some smaller. I might go on over one more peak if I can find water at the Guthooks “Lake” marker. Night night.

After a short break in Lincoln MT I got back on trail at Rogers Pass. Today was going to be only 8-miles to Lewis and Clark Pass, but the climbs were big and it was cold and windy (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Up I go and the climb begins (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
To get out of the gusting cold wind I went into this Yurt where I ate my snack and had a few minutes rest from its constant onslaught

Daily Log: Day 56

56 2686.4 8/9/2021 misty, foggy, very cold, very windy, exposed. I had put on my puffy and gloves to stay warm while sleeping. I kept them on. Woke and packed up my wet tent. I could see my breath. It was COLD! I was slack packing with minimal things. There were two immediate climbs. I ascended into fog (clouds). The trail was easy to follow and without the fog the views would have been great. But the wind, cold and fog was miserable. I had two more smaller climbs. Then a long descent to Rogers Pass. Justin was there waiting. We talked and agreed that we’d go to Lincoln MT for the rest of today. Previously we had discussed me going on, but the weather killed that. So we got a burger, and found a spot at an RV park. I dried out my tent and set it out. I changed my wound dressing. Then I took at nap from 3-5 pm. I didn’t sleep much with the previous night’s cold. We had pancakes for dinner. Yum! Tomorrow I plan on going 8 miles which is short but there is water there. Then 10 miles to a lake for water. Then 12 to 20 more to get down out of the mountain for more water. 

Foggy, windy and cold – not the best weather for a hike IMHO
In Lincoln MT at an RV Park in town (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)
Justin making a bacon and pancakes dinner in Lincoln MT. We had planned this meal for Rogers Pass as a stop-and-go, but it was too windy and I opted to not go on. Down in Lincoln the weather was just right (Photograph Courtesy of J. Watt)